India Doris’s room at 326 Seventh Avenue is European-Caribbean rather than another vague “global” menu. A meal can run from tuna crudo with cantaloupe, aji charapita and tostones ($24), through grilled prawn in sungold bouillabaisse with chili crisp ($32), to dorade with plantain, Swiss chard and chermoula ($38). That is acid, fruit, heat and char rather than cream as a personality. The current menu does not disclose every cooking fat or emulsifier; confirm no butter/cream in the bouillabaisse and dorade preparation. The salt-cod fritters use aioli and the roti uses yogurt. This is a recommendation with a real menu route, not a declaration that a recent opening has already proved itself.