For McQueen’s first London runway show in 25 years, Seán McGirr returned to Huntsman, the tailor that made Alexander McQueen’s own clothes. Huntsman produced three looks in three weeks, combining McQueen’s one-button jacket with Tommy Nutter’s curved sleeves, sharp proportions and theatrical shoulder roll. The making-of account
The construction detail is more useful than the celebrity pairing. McGirr pushed pockets unusually high, lengthened sleeves and asked for sleeve heads far outside Huntsman’s normal practice, packed with wadding and extra fullness. The workshop happened to employ Conrad Turner, who trained under Nutter. None of this makes the runway suit an everyday wardrobe recommendation. It shows how a house silhouette is made: moving a pocket or adding mass at the shoulder can alter the whole posture before fabric or color enters the discussion.