Hommali, now open at 28 Seventh Avenue South near Leroy Street, is built around Thai jasmine rice rather than a parade of greatest hits. White hom mali arrives with every meal; chef Chattchakorn Khajornchaisan makes curry pastes from several Thai chiles and dry-ages meat in view of the dining room. The terracotta, green and white interior follows a rice plant’s life cycle across two levels. Opening report with room and dishes

The reported tom yum seafood cocktail is a promising starting point for a seafood-led meal. The rest of the opening menu described publicly leans hard toward beef, duck and fermented-rice cream, so a full pescatarian dinner still requires the current menu and prices. That keeps this at “worth a look” rather than a booking recommendation. Dinner is listed Wednesday through Sunday, 5–10 p.m.; reservations route through Resy. The hospitality pedigree—Eleven Madison Park, Tonchin and the Standard—is encouraging, but the room has been open only three weeks.