The new 66-seat room at 142 West 10th Street is open Tuesday through Saturday. Its current menu supports a complete meal with a seafood-and-vegetable focus: razor clams à Bulhão Pato with garlic, white wine, cilantro and lemon ($28), followed by the tiger-shrimp and razor-clam rice with shellfish broth, saffron and herbs ($48). Confirm that the kitchen finishes the rice without butter. The combination is repetitive on razor clams, but it gives a bright first plate and a substantive main. The menu also includes octopus dishes and a fisherman’s stew containing ’nduja.
The room has more ambition than the usual opening-week “Mediterranean” blur: an adega reference, a Portugal-heavy wine list and seafood treated as the center of the meal. The drawback is price—two smaller plates already reach $66 before drinks—and the restaurant is too new for a settled hospitality record. The menu path, at least, is real.