The loudest new review is Dante at Claridge's. Grace Dent found the room and service more persuasive than the cooking. That makes it a less compelling dining prospect.

Other openings offer different considerations: Cloth Cornhill is a chophouse with limited pescatarian options; sources disagree on Clementine's exact opening date and the daytime menu leans heavily on meat, eggs and dairy; Bubala Covent Garden and Pam are still forthcoming. Novelty is not a reason to eat a weaker meal. Today's recommendation is the rare useful one: do not force a new-opening reservation. The Guardian