Zig Zag Oyster Bar opened at 406 Prospect Place in July, but the first serious criticism makes it worth catching up with now. It comes from the Cervo’s and Hart’s group, with a 60-seat room designed for walk-ins rather than a reservation campaign. Hannah Goldfield finds the place most persuasive when it stays close to the raw bar and its unfussy pleasures. New Yorker review

The clearest dinner for two is the reviewed $90 classic tower—12 oysters plus six each of mussels, clams and shrimp—with the $14 anchodinas, small fried anchovy sandwiches, if they remain on the current menu. Cocktails were $16. That is enough food and personality to justify the trip without leaning on the cheese-heavy crab dip or buttered potatoes. Detailed opening menu and room report

The trade-off is that this is a cold-shellfish dinner in Prospect Heights, not an all-purpose neighborhood restaurant. Current shellfish, prices and preparation should be confirmed at the table. Hours are listed Tuesday through Saturday, 5–11 p.m. Restaurant account